# Pelion Travel Guide: Mountain Villages and Beaches > Pelion travel guide: Makrinitsa, Tsagarada and other stone villages, the best Aegean beaches, the Moutzouris train, walking paths and getting around. URL: https://theauthenticgreece.com/pelion-travel-guide/ Last updated: 2026-10-30 --- Pelion is a forested mountain peninsula above the port city of Volos, and it gives you two holidays in one: stone villages in chestnut and plane tree forests on the slopes, and pebble beaches with clear water along the Aegean coast below. The best way to see it is by car, with one base on the mountain and one by the sea, or a single village base and day trips. Allow at least four days; a week is better. ## Quick facts - **Where:** Magnesia, Thessaly, between the Pagasetic Gulf and the Aegean, stretching south from Volos. - **Getting there:** drive or take the bus to Volos (about 330 km from Athens), or fly to Central Greece Airport near Nea Anchialos on a seasonal flight. - **Highest point:** 1,624 metres, with ski runs at Agriolefkes near Hania in winter. - **Best time:** late May to June and September to October for walking and swimming; July and August for the beaches; winter for snow and fireside tavernas. - **Time needed:** four days for the main villages and a couple of beaches, a week to include the south and some walking. - **Good for:** road trips, walkers, couples, families who want shade as well as sea. ## Understanding Pelion The peninsula is about 50 km long and shaped like a hook curling around the Pagasetic Gulf. Its spine is Mount Pelion, the mythical home of the centaurs and of the wise Chiron, teacher of heroes. Myth also says the timber for the Argo, Jason’s ship, came from these slopes, and that the wedding of Peleus and Thetis took place here. It helps to think of Pelion in three parts. **West Pelion** faces the calm Pagasetic Gulf, with gentle water and villages such as Milies and Vizitsa above it. **East Pelion** (often called the Aegean side) is greener and steeper, with Tsagarada, Zagora and Kissos high up and the finest beaches below. **South Pelion** is drier and quieter, ending at the narrow strait facing Skiathos. The mountain roads are winding and slow, so distances that look short on the map can take an hour or more. ## The villages Pelion’s villages were built in the Ottoman period by communities that enjoyed a degree of autonomy and grew wealthy from silk, olive oil and trade. Their legacy is tall stone mansions with grey slate roofs, painted interiors, paved squares shaded by huge plane trees, and fountains at every corner. There are around two dozen traditional villages; these are the ones most visitors prioritise. ### Makrinitsa and Portaria Just above Volos, Makrinitsa is known as the balcony of Pelion for its view over the city and the gulf. Its main square, with an old plane tree, a church and cafés, is the classic Pelion image. It is busy at weekends and on holidays, so arrive in the morning. Neighbouring Portaria is livelier, with more hotels and tavernas, and makes a convenient base close to Volos. ### Tsagarada Tsagarada is spread across several neighbourhoods on the Aegean side, each built around its own church and square. The square of Agia Paraskevi has one of the largest and oldest plane trees in Greece, often said to be around a thousand years old. Tsagarada is the best base for the eastern beaches and for walking on the old paths. ### Milies and Vizitsa On the western side, Milies is a working village with a beautiful church, a small folk museum and the terminus of the Pelion railway. Vizitsa, a few kilometres away, is a protected settlement of restored mansions, several of them now guesthouses, and is one of the most atmospheric places to stay. ### Zagora and Kissos Zagora is the largest village on the mountain and the centre of apple growing; Zagora apples have protected designation of origin status. Kissos, nearby, has the church of Agia Marina with fine frescoes and carved woodwork, and a pretty square. ## The beaches The Aegean coast has the dramatic beaches: white pebbles, very clear water and forest coming down almost to the sea. The flip side is that the sea can be rough when the north-east wind blows. The Pagasetic side is calmer and shallower, with small fishing villages, which makes it easier for young children. - **Mylopotamos:** below Tsagarada, two pebble coves separated by a rock arch, reached by steps from the road. The best-known beach in Pelion and busy in August. - **Fakistra:** a wild cove reached by a forest path, with no facilities. Take water and shoes with grip. - **Damouchari:** a tiny harbour with a pebble beach, known as one of the locations of the film Mamma Mia! - **Agios Ioannis and Papa Nero:** the most organised stretch of the Aegean coast, with sunbeds, tavernas and accommodation. A good choice for families. - **Horefto:** a long beach below Zagora with a small resort village. - **Pagasetic Gulf:** Kala Nera, Afissos and the beaches near Milina offer calm, warm water and fish tavernas. ## The Pelion railway The narrow-gauge Pelion railway, nicknamed Moutzouris (the sooty one), was built between 1892 and 1903 under the engineer Evaristo de Chirico, father of the painter Giorgio de Chirico, who was born in Volos. Today a heritage train runs about 15 km between Ano Lechonia and Milies, crossing stone and metal bridges through olive groves and forest, with a stop at Ano Gatzea. The journey takes about 90 minutes each way. It has run daily in recent summers and at weekends and holidays in spring and autumn, but the timetable changes every year, so check with Hellenic Train before planning a day around it. ## Walking on the kalderimia Before roads arrived, Pelion’s villages were linked by kalderimia, stone-paved mule paths that zigzag through the forest. Many have been restored and waymarked, and walking them is one of the best things to do here, especially in spring and autumn. Classic short walks include Tsagarada to Damouchari, Milies to Vizitsa, and the paths down to Fakistra and Mylopotamos. Carry water, wear proper shoes because the stones are slippery when wet, and plan a taxi or a bus back if you walk downhill to the sea. If you enjoy this kind of terrain, the [stone villages of Zagori](https://theauthenticgreece.com/zagori-travel-guide/) in Epirus are a natural next trip. ## Food and drink Pelion’s signature dish is spetzofai, country sausage cooked with peppers and tomato. Other mountain food includes pies, beans, wild greens, and slow-cooked meats in clay pots, with spoon sweets and chestnuts in autumn. On the coast, expect grilled fish and mussels from the Pagasetic Gulf. Volos itself is the capital of the tsipouradiko, where small bottles of tsipouro arrive with plates of seafood meze, and an evening on the Volos waterfront is a good end to a day on the mountain. ## Getting there and around Volos is the gateway. It is about four hours by car from Athens and around two and a half from Thessaloniki, and buses run from both cities. Central Greece Airport near Nea Anchialos has seasonal flights, mainly charters. From Volos, local buses serve the main villages, but services are limited and slow; a car is close to essential if you want to combine villages and beaches. Read our guide to [renting a car in Greece](https://theauthenticgreece.com/renting-a-car-in-greece/) before you book, and expect narrow roads, hairpin bends and the occasional goat. Volos is also a ferry port for the Sporades, so Pelion combines easily with a few days on Skiathos; see our guide to the [best beaches in Skiathos](https://theauthenticgreece.com/skiathos-beaches/) and our [guide to Greek ferries](https://theauthenticgreece.com/greek-ferries/). Heading north instead, the road continues towards [Mount Olympus](https://theauthenticgreece.com/mount-olympus-hike/) and Thessaloniki. ## Where to stay - **Portaria or Makrinitsa:** close to Volos and good for a short stay or a winter trip. - **Tsagarada:** the best base for the Aegean beaches and walking, with many guesthouses in old mansions. - **Agios Ioannis:** for a beach holiday with everything within walking distance. - **Milies or Vizitsa:** for the western side, the railway and calm gulf beaches. ## Practical tips - **Book ahead at weekends:** Pelion is a favourite weekend escape for Greeks, and Easter, August and winter holidays fill up early. - **Drive in daylight:** the mountain roads are winding and poorly lit, and fog is common in winter. - **Pack layers:** the villages can be much cooler than the coast, even in summer evenings. - **Beach shoes help:** most Aegean beaches are pebble, and the water gets deep quickly. - **Check the wind:** when the north-easterly blows, the Aegean beaches get waves; switch to the Pagasetic side. - **Winter snow:** if you plan to drive up to Hania or Agriolefkes in winter, carry snow chains and check conditions. ## Frequently Asked Questions ### How many days do you need in Pelion? Four days covers the main villages and a couple of beaches. A week lets you add South Pelion, some walking on the old paths and a slower pace on the coast. ### Do you need a car in Pelion? A car is close to essential. Buses from Volos serve the main villages, but they are infrequent and slow, and many beaches and paths are hard to reach without your own transport. ### What is the best base in Pelion? Tsagarada is the best base for the Aegean beaches and walking. Portaria and Makrinitsa suit short stays near Volos, and Agios Ioannis is the easiest choice for a beach holiday. ### Does the Pelion train still run? Yes, a heritage train runs about 15 km between Ano Lechonia and Milies, taking about 90 minutes each way. It has operated daily in recent summers and at weekends in spring and autumn, but check the current timetable with Hellenic Train. ### When is the best time to visit Pelion? Late May to June and September to October suit walking and swimming. July and August are best for the beaches, while winter brings snow, skiing at Agriolefkes and cosy village tavernas. ## Frequently asked questions ### How many days do you need in Pelion? Four days covers the main villages and a couple of beaches. A week lets you add South Pelion, some walking on the old paths and a slower pace on the coast. ### Do you need a car in Pelion? A car is close to essential. Buses from Volos serve the main villages, but they are infrequent and slow, and many beaches and paths are hard to reach without your own transport. ### What is the best base in Pelion? Tsagarada is the best base for the Aegean beaches and walking. Portaria and Makrinitsa suit short stays near Volos, and Agios Ioannis is the easiest choice for a beach holiday. ### Does the Pelion train still run? Yes, a heritage train runs about 15 km between Ano Lechonia and Milies, taking about 90 minutes each way. It has operated daily in recent summers and at weekends in spring and autumn, but check the current timetable with Hellenic Train. ### When is the best time to visit Pelion? Late May to June and September to October suit walking and swimming. July and August are best for the beaches, while winter brings snow, skiing at Agriolefkes and cosy village tavernas.