Antipaxos Beaches: Voutoumi and Vrika Guide

Two small bays with some of the clearest water in the Ionian.

Travel Team
12 Min Read
Highlights
  • Vrika: fine white sand and shallow water, best for children
  • Voutoumi: pebbles, deeper turquoise water and great snorkelling
  • Sea taxis from Gaios; arrive early to beat the cruise boats

The main Antipaxos beaches are Vrika, with fine sand and shallow water, and Voutoumi, with pebbles and deeper turquoise water. Both are reached by seasonal sea taxi from Gaios on Paxos in around 15 to 30 minutes and are linked by a path of about half an hour.

The Antipaxos beaches are Vrika and Voutoumi, two small bays on the island’s east coast with some of the clearest, most intensely turquoise water in the Ionian. Vrika has fine white sand and shallow water, ideal for children; Voutoumi has pale pebbles and sand, deeper water and the more dramatic setting. Both are reached by sea taxi from Gaios on Paxos in around 15 to 30 minutes, and both get crowded at midday in summer, so the trick is to arrive early or stay late.

Quick facts

  • Main beaches: Vrika (sand), Mesovrika (pebbles) and Voutoumi (pebbles and sand).
  • Getting there: seasonal sea taxis and small boats from Gaios, or a day cruise from Corfu.
  • Season: roughly May to October; boats and tavernas are limited or closed outside summer.
  • Time needed: a half day for one beach, a full day to walk between them.
  • Good for: swimming, snorkelling, families (Vrika), photographers (Voutoumi).

Antipaxos in brief

Antipaxos lies just south of Paxos and covers only about 5 square kilometres. The 2021 census counted 21 permanent residents. There is no village in the usual sense, just scattered houses, chapels, dry stone walls and small vineyards that cover much of the interior. The island’s small harbour is at Agrapidia, but most visitors never see it: they step off a boat directly at one of the beaches on the sheltered east coast.

The vineyards are worth knowing about. Antipaxos has long made its own strong, dark wine, mostly at household level and served in local tavernas rather than sold in shops. If a taverna offers its own wine, it is worth a glass, but do not expect a winery to visit.

Vrika beach

Vrika is the first bay the boats from Gaios reach and the easier of the two beaches. It is a curve of fine white sand that slopes gently into shallow, very clear water, with low green hills behind. The shallow entry makes it the best choice for young children and nervous swimmers. In season there are sunbeds and umbrellas for hire and tavernas set back from the sand.

The best known is Taverna Spiros, which grills fish and meat over charcoal in view of the guests and serves Greek mezze. Other seasonal tavernas and snack bars operate around the bay; what is open changes from year to year, so look before you sit down. Expect prices higher than in Gaios, which is fair enough for a place supplied entirely by boat.

Mesovrika

Between Vrika and Voutoumi, the small pebble cove of Mesovrika (the name means roughly middle Vrika) has the same clear water with fewer people and no facilities. It is a good stop on the walk between the two main beaches or a quieter place to swim when the excursion boats fill Vrika at midday.

Voutoumi beach

Voutoumi is the beach on most photographs of Antipaxos. The bay is backed by steep, wooded slopes, the beach is a mix of pale pebbles and sand, and the water drops off more quickly than at Vrika, glowing turquoise over the white seabed. It is excellent for snorkelling around the rocks at either end.

Sunbeds and umbrellas are available in season and there is a small beach bar or taverna at sea level. Above the beach, a taverna perched on the hillside is reached by a long flight of steps, a stiff climb on a hot afternoon but rewarded with a view straight down over the bay. Many boat passengers never make it up, which is one more reason to arrive independently and take your time.

Vrika or Voutoumi: which to choose?

VrikaVoutoumi
BeachFine white sandPebbles and sand
WaterShallow, gentle entryDeepens faster, very clear
Best forChildren, easy swimmingSnorkelling, scenery, photos
FacilitiesSunbeds, several tavernasSunbeds, beach bar, taverna up the steps
CrowdsBusy at middayBusy at midday, especially with boats at anchor

You do not have to choose. A path links the two bays in about half an hour on foot, with some uphill stretches through vineyards and scrub. Walk it in the morning or late afternoon, carry water and wear proper shoes rather than flip-flops.

Other coves around Antipaxos

The rest of the coastline is wilder. On the south and west, the coast is rocky and largely without beaches, with small inlets reachable mainly by boat. If you hire a boat in Gaios you can explore these on a calm day, but the west side is exposed to the open sea and should be avoided when the wind is up. Bring everything you need: there are no facilities away from the two main bays.

Getting to the Antipaxos beaches

Sea taxi from Gaios

In summer, small passenger boats and sea taxis leave from the waterfront in Gaios for Vrika and Voutoumi throughout the morning and return in the afternoon. The crossing takes around 15 to 30 minutes depending on the boat and which beach is first. Timetables and fares change each season and depend on the weather, so check them on the quay the day before. Confirm the time of the last boat back before you settle in.

Hiring a boat

Small motorboats can be rented in Gaios and the other Paxos harbours, some without a licence for the smaller engines. This gives you the freedom to arrive before the excursion boats and to explore the sea caves of Paxos on the way back. Licence rules depend on engine size, so confirm with the rental company. Sea kayaking is another option for fit paddlers on calm days; see our guide to sea kayaking in Paxos.

Day cruise from Corfu

Most visitors see Antipaxos on a day cruise from Corfu, which usually includes a swim stop off Voutoumi or Vrika, a pass along the Paxos sea caves and time in Gaios. It is a good introduction but gives you only an hour or so in the water. Our guide to the Corfu to Paxos day cruise explains what to expect. To stay on Paxos and visit Antipaxos at your own pace, read how to get to Paxos.

A simple plan for a day on Antipaxos

Take one of the first boats from Gaios and get off at Voutoumi while it is still quiet. Swim and snorkel for a couple of hours, then climb to the hillside taverna for an early lunch before the cruise passengers arrive. In the early afternoon, when the boats crowd the bay, walk the path through the vineyards to Mesovrika and Vrika, stopping for a swim at the quieter cove on the way. Spend the late afternoon on Vrika’s sand, when the water is at its warmest and the day trippers have left, and catch one of the last boats back to Gaios for dinner on the waterfront. On a calm day this gives you both beaches at their best with very little time in crowds.

When to go

June and September are the best months: warm water, everything open and fewer boats. In July and August the beaches fill between late morning and mid afternoon, when cruises from Corfu and charter boats arrive together, and Voutoumi bay can be crowded with anchored yachts. May and October are quiet and lovely, but sea taxis run less often and some tavernas may be closed. From November to April there is almost nothing open.

Practical tips

  • Take the first boat of the morning from Gaios and you will have a couple of quiet hours before the crowds.
  • Bring cash. There are no cash machines on Antipaxos and card payment cannot be relied on.
  • Carry water, a hat and high-factor sun cream; shade is limited once the sunbeds are taken.
  • Snorkelling gear is worth packing, especially for the rocks around Voutoumi.
  • Mobile signal varies from bay to bay.
  • Respect private land: much of the interior is vineyards and gardens.

For more on the main island, including its harbours, walks and food, see our Paxos travel guide and where to eat in the tavernas of Paxos.

Frequently Asked Questions

Which is better, Voutoumi or Vrika?

Vrika is better for children and easy swimming thanks to its sand and shallow water. Voutoumi is more scenic, with deeper turquoise water and good snorkelling. A path links the two in about half an hour, so you can visit both.

How do you get to Antipaxos from Paxos?

In summer, sea taxis and small passenger boats leave the Gaios waterfront for Vrika and Voutoumi, taking around 15 to 30 minutes. You can also hire a small motorboat in Gaios. Check the times of the last return boat before you go.

Is there anywhere to eat on Antipaxos?

Yes, in season. Vrika has several tavernas, including Taverna Spiros, and Voutoumi has a beach bar plus a taverna on the hillside above, reached by steps. Bring cash, as there are no cash machines on the island.

Can you stay overnight on Antipaxos?

There are a few private houses and villas for rent, but no hotels or shops in the usual sense. Most visitors stay on Paxos and visit Antipaxos for the day.

When is the best time to visit the Antipaxos beaches?

June and September offer warm water and fewer boats. In July and August the beaches are busiest from late morning to mid afternoon, so come early or stay late.

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